19th Century - JAPONISM in Fashion, where goods were made in the east and solely for the European market.
The oriental kimono was a major trend during the end of the century with the shape remaining the same however it adapted to the consumers in the European market.
The 'beer' evening dress - created by German Fashion Designer Gustav Beer has similar elements to that of the Japanese traditional aesthetics. However, it started to show a slight shift of moving into the art deco era of the 20s and 30s because of the slightly elongated, narrow appearance.
1920s - 30s ART DECO
A relationship between art and fashion was formed - an opulent and decadent style which influenced not only by fashion but also film, photography and also product design. It was a very naturalistic style that sought inspiration from historical european references as well as pictorial inventions of contemporary Avant Garde art.
MARIANO FORTUNY.
Fortuny was a versatile designer who photographed, created stage design and being most famous for his greek inspired pleated dress he made in the very beginning of the 20th century, 1906. His radiant silk was hand-dyed using natural vegetable extracts and pleated the fabric using a secret process he dominated in 1909.
AVANT GARDE
pushing the boundary to what is 'normality'
FUTURISM - BALLA.
Balla's work was associated with light, movement and speed, particularly movement where his working method was repeating forms of sequences.
Speed of a Motorcycle, 1913
The hand of the Violinist, 1912
I admire the repetition he uses within his work, I think it really emphasises the atmosphere within the photograph and captures the idea of speed, movement and light with this method of repeating sequences.
DADAISM - MARCEL DUCHAMP.
Takes existing art and reinvents it
SONIA DELAUNY.
co-founded the Orphism art movement, known for its geometric patterns and strong colours
ELSA SCHIAPARELLI.
Schiaparelli led Fashion in the 1930s, inspiring consumers with new developments and technology in her work. She worked closely with a Dadaist/Surrealist artist and was well-known for creating the 'lobster dress'. Schiaparelli was a lady of many talents, creating fashion styles that are worn today such as jackets to wear with evening gowns, square shoulders with the waist-lines nipped in and graphic patterned sweaters.
1960s - YVES SAINT LAURENT.
created the 'mondrian look' which was inspired by artist Piet Mondrain, with only primary colours and blocks, it is one of the most famous contemporary works for an artist of all time. The technique of the blocking is also credited to YSL as it compliments the body proportions perfectly.
After this, the 'pop art look' was introduced and the highlight of fashion following art was at it's peak through this current and next eras.
YSL were also the first to create the ethnic 'back to nature' look, which followed into the 70s fashion, as we commonly know the hippy years.
POP ART.
It presented a challenge to fine art by introducing mass popular culture such as advertising, news, politics etc.
RICHARD HAMILTON.
There is something I really adore about images from different medias being collated together in a collage - the aimless, quirkiness of the work makes it light-hearted and in some respect taken less seriously that you have more admiration for it as you are able to personally relate to the image in any way.
PETER BLAKE.
ANDY WARHOL.
Warhol popularised art with re-creating images of mass production, symbolizing the 60s culture of consumption. Warhol himself made the following dresses below, as well as recreating iconic images of Marilyn Monroe.
OP ART.
Bridget Riley
An english painter who in the 60s evolved a style which explored optical phenomena of which many of her works was visually disorientating to the eye but has a strong attentiveness to it.
PATRICK CAULFIELD.
Printmaker and English painter, Caulfield presented his work by simplifying the objects he painted with a simple black outline to display ordinary images as emblems of an obscure reality.
70s/80s
YOHJI YAMAMOTO. - structural, sculptural, architectural
A Japanese Fashion Designer who challenges traditional norms with his avant-garde style. His work is always playing with gender, oversized and characterised by a high use of black which he describes the colour as being both 'modest and arrogant at the same time'
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD.
70s 'Mother of Punk' - influenced by Rococo Fashion, military style, very old.
Westwood really does modernise punk and for her seventy-one year old self with bright orange hair and quirky style, she is nothing short of a style muse.
Opening her first shop called 'Let It Rock' which was later known as 'Sex' and then 'Too fast to live, too young to die', she sought inspiration from unusual places. She began a close collaboration with Matthew McLaren introducing designs influenced by prostitutes, razor blades and of course spiked dog collars. She was everything Punk had to offer - shock, leather and outrageous behaviour.
The following three brands all used a god-like reference within their advertising, showing how the artwork still influences the fashion industry today.
ADIDAS, DOLCE AND GABBANA & LEVIS.
Laocoon and His sons
Michelangelo - David
BARBARA KRUGER.
In the last decade Kruger has created all kinds of different medias from film, video to audio, using bold white and red text with classical aesthetics she encapsulates the consumer with direct messages about the kindness and brutalities of social life and how we react and connect with one another.
I love the use of simple colours and simple black and white images that thread through her work, it makes the message powerful and strong which in turn draws your attention to it and makes you reflect.
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